Thursday, November 13, 2008

Should You Winterize Your Lawn?

Should You Winterize Your Lawn?

This time of year, the marketing gurus at the popular fertilizer companies start to figure out new and improved ways to get our money. Their high season has passed and they need a way to generate revenue for their company and make their jobs more secure. One of the items to look out for is the idea of “lawn winterization”, particularly where your warm season turf is concerned.

Winterization, theoretically, is a way to make your lawn “come back quicker and greener in the spring, continue the battle with pests, and prevent the winter loving weeds from popping up in the cool season”.

Although, in my opinion, it is true that you can prevent a few winter lawn weeds from emerging (the “pre-emergent” ingredient in many winterizers), it is a bit of a stretch to go so far as to say that the grass will come up greener and more healthy in the spring.

It’s also risky to add any fertilizer to your lawn when the cool season is approaching its first frost. Nitrogen (the “N” in NPK), could encourage new growth. If there is any new growth when the first frost comes the frost could damage the turf plant permanently.

Nature intends for some species of plants to rest in the cool season. Give your lawn a break from the chemicals, traffic, and all the activity of the growing season. If you mow the lawn, mow at the usual level, mulching the clippings and letting them fall to thatch and break down. Let the microorganisms do their duty and build that healthy, natural soil for your lawn that you are after. Fall is a time to turn off the sprinklers, crank up the fireplace, and enjoy some well earned time off.

By: Ashley Brooks, Busy Bee Lawn Care

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

When to Transplant Plants - Intuition Based Gardening

AUTUMN HAS ARRIVED! If you're wondering when to transplant plants, here is some information.

Wow, how to begin, when I am gushing over with excitement for this time of year?!
While summer is all about groundskeeping and lawn maintenance (and trying to stay cool while maintaining a yard!), autumn is all about CREATING!

Yes, I know, it’s when things are seemingly ‘dying’; to me they are merely “going to sleep”. And, while they are slipping into this dormant state, I can slip my shovel up under their roots and MOVE THEM!

Why would I want to move my plants?

Well, I would not necessarily move all of them, just the ones that didn’t seem ‘happy’ where they were….the ones that didn’t bloom as nicely, grow as large as I’d hoped, or perhaps even looked pretty pitiful! Yes, now is the time I will move them. If they got to be a big clump of stems, branches , and roots, then I will divide them, and have EVEN MORE OF THEM for all the wonderful new beds I will be creating and enhancing!

And, if I have green thumb friends, I will make their day by sharing some of these divisions with them!

I can’t wait to prepare a new ‘room’; that is, an area partially enclosed by plantings to create a ‘quiet place’ filled with my favorite plants…I can’t wait to push my shovel into the dark, rich earth and turn that first bunch of dirt that begins my new planting. I will give my transplants a great start by adding a bit of mushroom compost~I never plant anything without it!

A good loosening of the roots, and into the ground it goes~I will soak the new planting, and continue to make sure it is moist, but not soggy. The fall rains will do the rest.

By wintertime, I’ll be back to maintenance, although it will be sporadic; more about that at another time!

Ahhhh, Autumn! A time to create, a time to divide, a time to plant…..and in the cool, crisp, sunny weather~what more can a gardener ask for?

Happy autumn gardening!

-By Betty bee (Ashley's Mom :)

Stay Tuned for More Gardening Tips from Betty!

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

How to Lay Sod

If you live in the drought stricken South, you are probably wondering what do do about your grass lawn. If you know how to properly lay sod, you can renovate your turf and enjoy a new lawn to play on for the rest of the warm season. In this article, I am going to instruct you on the details of how to lay sod (install sod).

When you lay sod, you have to first decide what type of grass will grow well in your yard given the conditions. Only as a secondary consideration should you consider the type of grass sod to lay down based upon aesthetics (in my opinion). The main choices here in Columbia, S.C. are Centipede, St. Augustine Grass, and Bermuda Grass. If you have a low light situation, go with St. Augustine. If you have a heavily tread on area that you would like to maintain grass, go with centipede or bermudagrass. Centipede is the most widely used sod here in South Carolina because it holds up well to high traffic and the heat and drought that we have here. Once you have decided on what type of sod you are going to lay, you have to prepare the area.

To install sod properly, you must create a healthy environment for the grass to grow in. First, you must decide on how the grass is going to be watered. You can either get a below ground irrigation system installed or you can do a simpler spigot based sprinkler system. Which one of these you choose depends upon your budget and the size of the yard.

The next step is to remove as much non-dirt material from the top layer of the ground as possible. If there is existing grass, simply mow it to the ground as low as possible. If you have plenty of time, you can first herbicide it, then mow it down, ensuring that the roots are eradicated. Whichever way you remove debris is dependent upon the sod type you are going to install. St. Augustine, for instance, will take over centipede so completely eradicating the old centipede is not necessarily needed. Once mowed down, rake out the debris and dispose of it. If the soil is hard, till it to about 3 inches. If the soil is soft, tilling may not be necessary.

Next, I like to amend the soil with some lime. Simply spread the lime with a rotary spreader and water in. Lime will bring the pH of the soil out of acidity and into a more sweet pH range, which grass will thrive in.

After amending the soil, I like to haul in about 3/4" of good rich black topsoil. Get the screened topsoil. Spread the topsoil over the area that will have new grass installed.

As a super boost to the new sod, I also like to haul in a thin layer of mushroom compost mixed with other (special!) ingredients. This ensures that the new sod will "take" and root well for years to come. As an alternative, you can till in starter fertilizer, which is high in potassium, which helps boost root growth.

Skipping the topsoil and mushroom compost will work, but the sod will likely only last a couple of years at which time it will look bare and depleted. The deeper the roots can get in rich soil, the longer and thicker the grass blade will have the potential of being.

Once the dirt has been manually graded and smoothed with an extra wide landscape rake, it is ready for the new sod to be installed. Simply roll the sod out, butting up the ends and sides as close as possible to the next roll of sod. I like to roll the sod on the edges of the lawn first, that way I establish the curves in the beds that I like to do so much. Once all of the pallates of sod are all gone, a final step would be to roll the sod with a manual roller. Rolling the sod ensures that all of the roots are in contact with the soil.

Your newly installed sod should be watered twice a day for the first 2 weeks. After the grass is established, you should water frequently to ensure that it does not dry out. Do not cut your new grass for at least 6 weeks after it has been installed. When you do mow it, mow it high, mulch it frequently, and fertilize it properly.

Now that you know how to lay sod, you need the time to do it! If you don't have the time and if you want the greenest lawn on the block, give me a call! I serve the Greater Columbia, South Carolina Area with the best in lawn care, Busy Bee Lawn Care - my cellphone is (803)331-5323.

-Ashley Brooks, Owner/Operator, Busy Bee Lawn Care, LLC

Sunday, June 08, 2008

GROWING ROSES IN SOUTH CAROLINA - How to grow roses like a pro!

GROWING ROSES IN SOUTH CAROLINA - By my friend, Billy

Growing roses can be fun and very rewarding as there are many different colors and fragrances of roses. I have been growing roses now for some thirty years and have learned over the years by trial and error which roses do best in our area as well as the best disease resistant and they type of soil needed to grow great roses.

LOCATION:

Location is key to growing roses. Select an area where you receive at least 8 to 10 hours of full sun each day. Morning sun is essential, but light afternoon shade is tolerated and even beneficial in hot summers.

SOIL:

Next roses need a good soil in which to grow. They grow best in a soil with a Ph of 5.5 to 7.0, rich in organic matter, with excellent drainage as they do not like to have their feet standing in water. If your soil is sandy or clay it can be improved with the addition of organic matter. Soil pH can be raised with the addition of lime (7 to 8 pounds per 100 square feet to raise the Ph). If you need to lower the Ph add powered sulfur according to directions.

SELECTING ROSES:

Look for roses with nice large canes and a good shape (similar to the outline of a vase), being open in the center for good air circulation and with no broken or dead canes. Your local garden shop is a good place to start and they can give you advice on the growing habits as well as disease resistant varieties.

TYPES OF ROSES:

First, you must decide what type of rose you want. Perhaps you will eventually want to try a variety for different locations in your yard.

1. Tea Roses are a multi-petal rose, typical of what most people think of roses. They are generally a fragrant rose and come in many colors. The beauty of this rose is that it continues to bloom if you are diligent at snipping off the dead blooms. Dead blooms sap the plant of vital nutrients, so dead heading (snipping) the dead rose is important. The blooms are large and gorgeous. This rose can survive in harsh winters but must be protected during snow season.

2. Floribunda is a pretty five-petal rose that blooms in beautiful large clusters. They are generally planted as a low hedge or a border plant. They generally bloom from June through October. Floribunda is a simple rose with a pretty, delicate appearance.

3. Grandifloras are great if you are a beginning rose gardener. This rose is extremely easy to grow and rewards you quickly with rich, abundant blooms in a variety of colors. They are a great cold weather rose and look beautiful in any garden or landscaping plan.

4. Climbing roses do well to decorate trellises, walls, or archways. They must be supported in some fashion though as they are climbers. Most of their blooms are at the midpoint and above. They add beauty to structures and are great for hiding ugly spots in your yard or garden.

5. Shrub roses grow in a rounded cluster, which makes them great for filling an empty space. These roses have an abundance of fragrant blooms and are very hardy and can stand harsh winters. They are also fairly disease resistant.

6. Mineature roses
These roses generally have no smell but grow great in containers as well as in a bed and are treated the same as the big roses.

PLANTING YOUR ROSES:
POTTED ROSES

When planting a potted rose you want to plant the rose at the same level as the ground or slightly higher as you want the bud union approximately 2 inches above ground level. Dig hole slightly larger than your pot as this will allow roots to spread and grow.

Make sure the bud union of the rose is at least 2 inches above ground level. There will be some settling of the bush and you need space for your summer mulch.
1. Fill in around the rose with soil. Firm soil around rose but do not stomp down. Water and let the soil settle. Fill the rest of the hole with remaining soil.
2. Mulch well with pine bark, pine bark mulch or rotten leaves as this will keep soil cool and moist during hot summer as well as discourage weed growth.
BARE ROOT ROSES

Note: Soak bare root roses in a bucket of warm water 8 to 10 hours or over night before planting. Remove any dead wood or canes before planting.

1. Dig hole approximately 20x20 inches. Add soil to hole making a cone shape with soil. Place rose on top of cone spreading roots along top of cone. Add water to hole and let drain. Add soil around rose and gently firm around rose. Water slowly and then add mulch or dry soil around rose. Water daily for several days until you see growth beginning. Once growth starts water at least one to two inches once a week and more during hot dry summer, keeping soil moist not soggy wet.

PRUNING:
The first step in spring pruning of Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas and Climbing roses is to remove any canes that are dead or just old and non-productive. These canes are usually gray in color and scaly. To prune hybrid tea and grandiflora roses follow these steps:

1. High pruning for more flowers earlier or low pruning for fewer, bigger flowers later
2. Pruning to remove weak and crisscrossing canes
3. Removing growth an inch below a canker
4. Removal of damaged, dead, or broken canes back to healthy growth
5. Removing sucker growth as close as possible to main root.

Following these steps will encourage growth from the base of plant. This new growth or shoots will soon produce new canes which is the life of your roses. This new growth should not be confused with "suckers" which arise from the rootstock below the graft union. Remove all suckers.

The next step involves taking a good look at the bud union. If you have any old, dry scaly wood on the union, remove it. Use a dull knife to scrape the bud union to remove the scaly wood. By doing this it will again make it possible for new basal breaks to come about.

Remove all twiggy growth on the remaining canes. (Note: This type pruning on climbing roses should be done after they bloom in the spring.) Try to clean out the middle of the bush as much as possible. This allows for good air circulation to prevent insects and disease.

Comment: Always prune to an outside bud. The basic technique for most pruning is to cut 1/4 inch above the nearest outward-facing bud with the cut at a 45-degree angle (the higher point above the bud). This means when picking the point on a given cane to cut back to, make sure there is a good bud on the cane facing toward the outside of the plant. This will insure the growth of the new bud is to the outside, therefore keeping the center of the rose bush clear and open for air circulation. Seal cuts with Elmer’s glue to prevent disease

When pruning is completed remove any old foliage left on the canes and spray with a mixture of Funginex or Benomyl and Orthene or Diazinon as a clean up spray. Spray the entire bush and the ground around the bush.

The final product of your pruning should be a rose bush about 18 to 24 inches tall with 4 to 8 canes. Add some fertilizer and regular pest spraying, and that pitiful looking rose bush will soon give you a shower of flowers.

Floribundas are usually not pruned as severely as hybrid teas. Even so, be sure to remove any dead, broken, damaged, or blotched branches back to where the center of the cane is white and healthy looking. Next, remove weak, spindly canes, canes growing toward the center of the bush, the weaker of two canes that crisscross, canes that grow out, then up, and suckers, if any. Finally, trim all remaining canes back to one-half their former height.

Miniatures - In the spring it is best Shrubs - Remove any dead canes and lightly trim remainder of bush, removing about a third of the growth. Mass blooming is the aim with these roses. Additional light grooming throughout the year is encouraged since ever blooming varieties bloom on new wood. Varieties that bloom only once during the season should be pruned AFTER they have bloomed since they bloom on old wood.

General - If the bush is over two years old, cut out one or more of the oldest and largest canes using a keyhole saw. Also, clean off the bud union with a dull knife. Seal any large cuts with Elmer's glue. Remove debris from beds and any leaves remaining on bush after pruning is completed.

Deadheading Roses
Removal of spent blooms (deadheading) is an important summer maintenance practice for roses, especially the continuous blooming varieties. Removing the spent blooms conserves the energy the plant would normally use for seed production, encourages repeat flowering, and removes potential disease harboring sites. To deadhead, remove the flower by cutting back, at a 45 degree angle, to the first outward facing bud in the axil of a leaf with five leaflets.

The continuous blooming climbing rose is deadheaded a little differently. Remove the spent blooms just above the foliage, making sure not to remove any of the foliage since new blooms will be produced from the leaves immediately below old flower clusters.

Fertilizing
Because roses are heavy feeders, a routine fertilization program is important for plant health and vigor. To provide the proper nutrients for your roses in the amounts needed for optimum growth, it is important to first test your soil to determine its pH. before adding fertilizer. A soil test kit can be obtained by calling your county Extension office. The amount of fertilizer and types of amendments you apply will be determined by the results of the soil test. Following the recommendations will assure you will neither over nor under fertilize your roses. A soil test should be done prior to planting and every two to three years thereafter.

Soil texture, which is the relative percentage of sand, silt and clay composing soil, will influence the amount and frequency of fertilizer application. Sandy loams, for instance, will require more frequent applications because they drain rapidly, leaching essential nutrients. They contain little clay (and possibly organic matter) that would normally hold nutrients.

It is always a good idea to amend your soil with organic matter, such as humus, peat moss, manure or composted sewage sludge for an added source of slow release nutrients. The addition of organic matter will also improve the soil's drainage and nutrient holding capacity. It is recommended that two to four inches of organic matter be added and worked into new beds to a depth of 12 inches. Many gardeners find the combination of organic materials and a fast release, complete, inorganic fertilizer, such as a 5-10-5, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12, works best to produce beautiful roses. Today there are several good rose fertilizers on the market that also have an insect control added into them which works systemically. These work great and help greatly in the control of insects.

Pruning
An area of concern for many gardeners new to growing roses is pruning. Why do you have to prune roses? What kind of tools do you need? When is the best time to prune? How do you prune? Does it matter what type of rose it is?
Basically, pruning is done to improve the appearance of the plant, to remove dead or diseased wood, to let in sunlight and air to the center of the plant and to control the quantity and quality of the flowers produced. Deadheading, or the removal of spent blooms during the season, encourages more blooms (on continuous blooming varieties), improves the appearance of the plant, and removes potential harboring sites for disease organisms.
Prune rose bushes to a uniform height, between 12 and 24 inches; remove suckers below the soil line.

The tools essential for pruning roses are pruning shears, long handled lopping shears and a fine toothed curved saw. All should be sharp to produce clean cuts and to avoid tearing or crushing the stems. When buying pruning shears, look for the hook and blade type, which have two cutting edges like a pair of scissors. The anvil type pruners, with one cutting edge, will crush the stem. Long handled lopping shears are best used on thick canes or ones difficult to reach with pruning shears. A fine toothed curved saw is used for larger climbing roses. You might also want to invest in a pair of heavy duty gloves to protect your hands from sharp thorns.
In general, roses should be pruned just before growth begins in March or early April. The exceptions are old (heirloom) roses and some climbers that produce blooms on the previous year's wood. They should be pruned after they bloom.

Pruning Bush Roses
Following a logical sequence of steps while pruning will help make the job seem less complicated. The first step is to remove any dead, diseased or damaged wood. Cut the stems one inch below darkened areas, making sure you are cutting back to green wood. Make the cut at a 45 degree angle about 1/4 inches above an outward facing bud. Inspect the center of the stem. It should be white. If tan colored, continue pruning sections of the stem until the center appears white.
The second step is to remove branches that grow toward the center of the plant. This opens up the plant for better air circulation and allows sunlight to penetrate the inner portion of the plant.

The third step is to locate crossing branches and remove the weakest one. Crossing branches may rub against each other, causing abrasions that may serve as openings for disease organisms to enter the plant. Remove sucker growth, which is growth coming from below the bud union. Sucker growth is from the root stock and is a different rose variety. If not removed, sucker growth will crowd out the desired variety.

Finally, prune to shape the plant. Hybrid teas, grandifloras and floribundas can be pruned 12 to 24 inches in height, leaving up to 9 to 12 large (1/2 inch diameter), healthy canes. Old, shrub and species roses should be pruned lightly, removing no more than 1/3 of the growth. Miniature roses need only minimal pruning.
After pruning seal cut surfaces of the stems to prevent rose cane borers from entering with Elmer’s glue.
Winter Protection
Reduce stress on roses going into the dormant season by irrigating adequately in late autumn and discontinuing fertilization in late summer or early autumn. Add mulch to a depth of 4 to 6 inches to cover bud union during winter to prevent freezing.

I hope this article will help and encourage you to try to grow roses in your garden.

For specific questions, you can contact Billy at this email address

Sunday, May 18, 2008

How to get rid of weeds in your yard

The question of how to get rid of weeds in your yard is a seemingly simple one, but realistically and scientifically a very complex issue. If you live in Columbia, South Carolina, I can potentially help you to professionally conquer the weed problem just visit my lawn maintenance company website. In this rambling, I am going to go over 3 of the main situations where weeds are concerned. Weeds can be caused by cutting too often and too short, by undernourishment and lack of care for the grass, and by normal annual infestation.

So you have a lawn maintenance company cutting your yard and doing your grounds keeping. They come like clockwork to cut the lawn – every 2 weeks on the dot the foreman is there with their big riding mowers, high dollar weed eaters and blowers, loaded down trailer rigs, and low paid day laborers. This is an empowering feeling for you as you have paid someone “professional” to do something for you that you do not want to do (or don’t have the time to do); the crew is there to serve you. It is an empowering feeling for that foreman guy because he is experiencing his version of the American Dream on his $11,000 lawn mower. The lawn looks great for a while, and then you notice a decline in the overall health over time. The grass is not as lush as it used to be, you notice a lot of dust, there are dips and thin spots in the turf, and you start wondering what is going on. After all, you are paying for “lawn care”. In reality, what you are experiencing more often than not is a “mow and go”. These guys do a really sharp job, are savvy with the gas powered equipment, but they are usually not in the least bit interested in the horticultural aspect of grounds keeping.

Grass is a plant. It needs to be cared for on a micro level just as any other plant. Grass needs watering at the proper times, cutting at the proper times and proper height; it needs fertilization and pest control, and it needs aeration and sunlight (and a break from the sunlight). The fact that your lawn has stripes in it and looks like the flat top hairdo of a drill sargeant does not mean that it is healthy.

What the mow and go is doing to your lawn is: compacting the soil due to the heavy equipment and vacuuming away precious mulched grass and the nutrients those clippings contain (grass clippings contain 5% nitrogen; grass is its own fertilizer!). The alternative to the industrial mow and go is to use a mulching push mower. Yes, a push mower! They are light, with a lighter blade, and can do a much better job of mulching the clippings. The lighter blade allows a nice clean cut on the grass (less than a clean cut leaves the ends split and susceptible to disease). Lighter mower means significantly less compaction of the turf. Less turf compaction means more air is getting to the roots. More air to the root system means more potential to take in nutrients and to get lush and green! If you must use heavy equipment, you should seriously consider getting your turf CORE aerated every year or as needed. If you don’t core aerate and you continue to use heavy equipment on your lawn, your green lush turf is on its way to declining completely and will cost you thousands of dollars to re-sod and renovate after just a few years’ time.

Cutting too often and too short are a problem that most mow and go companies don’t pay attention to. Once they load up the trailer and roll up to your lawn on the day that you are scheduled for service, they are usually not going to turn back. They have too much time and money invested in the trip over to your place to not do the job and gather that cash. They are paying helpers their hourly wage while riding in the truck on the way to your house. My point is this: the mow and go is not going to do the right thing which is to come to the house as scheduled, inspect the lawn, and act according to the need of the turf. If it is growing lush, green, and healthy go ahead with a cut. If not, let it grow out. When you do cut it, don’t cut any more than 1/3rd of the total length. I repeat, don’t cut it too short or you will encourage weeds, bare roots, and the general decline of your expensive sod!

This raises another point, the blade and the mower deck. A sharp blade will give you a good healthy cut. This is very important; do not dismiss this as unimportant! If your mow-and-go guy has a dull blade and a dirty deck, he is doing you a disservice. What’s more, you don’t know where that mower has been! The debris and weed seeds that stick to the underside of unclean, under serviced mower decks is a problem in and of itself!

Undernourishment and lack of care of your grass is a contributor to weed growth. If you want weeds, do not water your grass. If you like dandelions and those little yellow flowers that come up, do not care for your lawn in any way. If you want dull, grey, dusty lawn, do not fertilize. If you need fishing bait, do not treat for grub worms! If you do want as much beauty as your grounds can bear, you need to fertilize at the proper time, spread pre-emergent weed and feed at the proper time, water as the lawn needs it, and so on. In short, get a groundskeeping professional; a turf management specialist who has experience in not only running equipment and mowers but a genuine affinity for nature and horticulture.

Tip: A new turf in an average sized yard will cost you literally thousands of dollars!

My advice to you on how to control normal annual weeds in your yard is this: plan ahead and treat for weeds before they germinate. This means that in early spring, you need to go out there and spread pre-emergent herbicide. You can also “winterize” before winter to #1 get your root system beefed up and ready to pop with growth after the winter and #2 squelch any infestations of weeds. You also need to spread bug killer here and there to take care of beetles, grubs, etc.

Every yard is going to have the annual weed battle. If you don’t, you’re lucky. Sometimes no matter how good of a mower you have, how much fertilizer you use (to boost your “good grass” and help it to choke out the bad stuff), no matter how much pre-emergent you use to fend off weeds, or how much proper lawn care you exercise, you are still going to have to get down on your hands and knees and pull weeds up by hand. A weedeater is handy for mechanical removal as well. Just whack it! Try not to hurt the surrounding grass, but get that weed…uproot it if you are so inclined.

In summary, your yard is just like a stereo system: you can put as much or as little money into it depending upon how much beauty (or lack of beauty) you can stand. If you want a lush, green, weed free lawn that invites you to lay down on your back and look at the clouds go by on a nice spring morning, you are going to have to work for it – or hire someone to do that for you. Simply paying a guy with alot of equipment to come cut your grass every 2 weeks is a mistake that I see many many people doing.

Feel free to email me anytime, link to my articles, or call me to see if I can offer my professional assistance. I am Ashley Brooks, Busy Bee Lawn Care, Columbia S.C., and I care about your lawn!

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Landscape Mulch types - which bed dressing is right for you?

Landscape mulch is a great way to make the yard look finished. Mulching is also a solution to problems with drought, weeds, and grounds maintenance issues. Having a landscaping company install (spread) the right type of mulch in your yard is critical to the overall outcome.

There are several different kinds of landscape supplies that you can use to mulch your beds, shrubberies, areas around trees, and playground areas. One of my favorite mulches is cedar mulch. Cedar is an aromatic wood that is a natural repellant to bugs. The beautiful appearance of cedar coupled with its functional qualities makes this a great bed dressing choice for near the house or in playground areas. Another favorite is pine bark mulch which is cheap, readily available, and rich looking. Hardwood mulches are popular as well. Hardwood mulch comes in natural color, black, red, and brown. Cypress is commonly used as a colored mulch.

The purpose of mulch is three fold. It will retain moisture in your flower and shrub beds to help when lack of rainfall is a problem. The right kind of mulch and color of mulch can increase the value of your home by a significant percentage. A good thick layer will greatly reduce the need for weed maintenance. The aesthetic value, vegetation conrol, and moisture retaining quality make mulching a worthwhile upgrade to your landscape.

Submitted by Ashley Brooks, Busy Bee Lawn Care, Columbia S.C. 803)331-5323

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Palm Tree Installation Service - Columbia, S.C.

CURRENTLY WE DO NOT INSTALL OR DELIVER PALM TREES - HERE IS THE LINK TO A LOCAL SUPPLIER AND INSTALLER: www.garnersferry.com (tell them Busy Bee Sent ya!)


If you have ever driven down to Florida, you have no doubt seen the miles and miles of palm trees that line the highways and byways. Palm trees grow wild down in Florida - much different than here in Columbia, S.C. where you have to call on a palm tree installation service to enjoy the beauty of these trees.

Palm tree installation begins with the choosing of the palm that would work best for your landscape and your budget. There are dozens of different kinds of palm trees, but the most popular ones here in South Carolina are the Windmill Palm, the Sago Palm, the Palmetto Palm, and the Dwarf Fan Palm. The aforementioned palms are pictured below in the order in which they were mentioned.









Busy Bee Lawn Care would take great care to install your new palm tree on your property and guarantee the palm tree to live for at least one year! If you are in the market for a palm tree installation and you are in Columbia, S.C., give Busy Bee Lawn Care a call to schedule a free consultation - (803)331-5323, Mr. Ashley Brooks

Visit: Busy Bee Lawn Care for more company information - locally owned and operated!