Managing Crape Murder

A while back, I did an article on how to prune crape myrtles.  Since here in Columbia and Lexington South Carolina it is best to take care of these tree like bushes in February, before they begin to bud for the spring, I thought I'd post an update and some fresh thoughts on how to manage crapes...particularly, crapes that have been previously hacked on improperly.

One finer point that goes deeper on the subject than the usual "prune to train, prune off the spent pods only, don't hack on the large limbs" is what to do if the tree has simply gotten too big for the area or for your taste.  These things grow very fast and before you know it you do have a big tree to deal with.  Even if your crape myrtles have been perfectly manicured every February and it is now just too big, then what?  No level of perfect cut is going to remedy the fact that you are now forced to either remove the tree altogether (gasp!) or go against all principles and commit crape murder (egad!).  This situation is similar to camellias, where the bush has gotten so large that it is starting to look like a popsicle.  So how to make the best of the situation. 

I propose that you consider taking the whole tree down to the quick.  Leaving a stump about 2" high...high enough to clear mulch but low enough to where it is not obvious.  After you chainsaw it down, you then keep it watered and hope for the best.  If you have any shooters with leaves you might want to leave those on until you get more shooters out of the stump.  Then when those remaining shooters are no longer needed for their sunlight intake, you cull them to the quick.  What were hoping for here is that the robust root system of your precious family heirloom firecracker red crape myrtle will quickly send up new shoots out of what is now a stump.  The likeliness of this happening is quite high as, again, crapes are like weeds. 

After a season or two, you then pick the shoots (4+ feet tall by now) that you like the most.  You cultivate them to go in the direction you want and prune off the rest.  It depends upon the situation but I recommend cultivating no more than 5 shoots which will one day be large (keep that in mind).  So there's a potential solution to crape myrtles that have gotten too large and messy...

Another fine point of crape myrtle management is what to do with the large unsightly knots that have formed on the ends of the limbs as a result of previous crape murder.  Speaking as one who's eyes practically burn when I see something like this, I propose that instead of paying somebody an hourly rate to tediously cut off every shoot from last year's growth, that, since you've already entered into the improper management cycle of crape murder, you cut  this time just under the large knot area into fresh stump.  This leaves a cleaner look; as clean as it can get.  And sure, year after year of this will lower that precious, smooth trunk, but it does look better than leaving the knots and eventually it'll be down to the ground as previously proposed as an initial cut.

As always, if I can be of assistance, let me know!
-ash, Busy Bee Lawn Care & Sprinkler Repair

How to install a lawn sprinkler irrigation system

If you have a large enough yard to where it impractical to water the lawn with a traditional hose and portable sprinkler you may want to consider installing an automatic underground sprinkler system.  Sprinkler System Installation in Columbia S.C. includes many steps to take which are outlined below. Generally, these steps include:

Calling PUPS before you dig - especially when you are planning on running pvc pipes near utility junctions, you must call this free service (PUPS) to have them mark the area for gas lines, power lines, etc. Once you have called them, they will mark the site within 3 days or so of your order. Once marked, you will have a more clear idea of where and where not to install your pipes, valves, etc. One tip for locating your water meter is to look on the street curb for a blue marking. Sometimes there is a blue mark that lines up with where the main from the street runs.

Evaluating the areas in your yard that you want to be watered - Some yards have heavy slopes, which need to be taken into account in regards to the layout of the zone. If, for instance, you install a 4 head zone in a straight line going downhill, you will have problems with leak down issues. A better setup on this slope would be a side to side setup where all heads are pretty much at the same level. Another consideration specific to each yard is drip irrigation for the flower beds where careful planning is taken to isolate the beds as a unique zone rather than tapping into what was intended to be a lawn spraying zone. In short, every yard is different and the design of each yard should be unique, not cookie cutter.

Marking the ground where you want the heads installed - careful consideration should be given as to where to place a sprinkler head and exactly what kind of head to install in that spot. You should mark each spot with a flag. Once each zone head location has been planned, you should choose the type of head and decide what you want that head to do. Basically, you need to choose either a rotary head or a popup head. With each head, you then need to choose what type of nozzle to use. Nozzles vary in spray pattern, in gallons per minute output, in adjustability, and in spray angle.

Purchasing the appropriate parts and accurate amounts of piping - This comes with experience in regards to commercial sprinkler repair and installation. The advantage that the contractor has in this regard is #1 it saves time (which is money) if they can go by feel and #2 the contractor gets a discount on the parts. In the case of the do it yourselfer, there is a very good solution though...draw up a general plan of your yard to scale, get a GPM reading of the water main output, then mail that information to your favorite sprinkler parts provider (like Rain Bird). Manufacturers will often professionally draw up a parts list and a blueprint for you to use. You would then take that parts list to your favorite hardware store and begin purchasing. Again, keep in mind that you are paying retail for those irrigation parts where the contractor is buying at a discount (that can be passed on to you at least in part).

Choosing a water main tap-in spot - this is often a deciding factor for do it yourselfers as to whether they will proceed with the installation on their own. Basically, you need to install a "tee" in your water main line that leads to #1 a shutoff ball valve and #2 a backflow control valve (then on to supply the sprinkler system zone valves). Where you decide to tap in is up to you, but optimally it should be at the largest diameter pvc spot and close to the water meter. If you are faced with tapping into a galvanized water main pipe as opposed to the more simple pvc (modern) pipe, then you may want to consider either having a plumber come in and tap in OR tap in in an alternate spot. This is another task that you may want to have a professional do for you.

The items mentioned here are only a few of the many steps you eed to take when considering how to install a lawn sprinkler irrigation system. If you are the do it yourseler type and you are trying to save some money, you may want to call on a paid consultant to at least help you get started and make the initial recommendations such as layout, water main tap-in, water pressure issues, parts needed, where to get the right parts, etc. Either way, you should be careful for your safety, you should consider the environment, and you should practice only the best standard methods in plumbing.

Proper lawn maintenance begins with fall cleanup

     In the spring and summer, I often get the inquiry where there is a problem with the lawn like dead spots, washout, or bad growth.  The turf is declining, there are bare spots or dead areas and the customer wants an answer.  A common misconception is that, at that point in the year, there is a "silver bullet" of a remedy that can immediately turn the condition of the lawn around; a treatment or a quick seeding that will give them the lush, green lawn that they desire.  The truth of the matter is that proper lawn maintenance should include a thorough fall cleanup routine that perhaps includes some treatments. 

     There are several different attacks happening on your lawn in the fall.  Sticks, pine cones, gumballs, acorns, leaves and pine straw are a few of the major culprits.  These items must be removed in order to optimize your lawn's potential.  Fall cleanup can be done with a blower or a rake of course, but a blower is the best way to get all the debris out off the nooks and crannies in the quickest way possible.  My favorite leaf blowers are an even tie: I like the Echo PB651-T, which you can't get anymore and I like the Stihl BR600 magnum, which is a quieter model that is available at your local lawn and garden supply store.

     One thing I see people doing is running the riding mower over a yard full of debris.  The intent here (and the misconception in most cases) is that this "mulching" of the leaves is good for the lawn, somehow easier to do than rake, and perhaps even more environmentally friendly.  In my many years of experience with lawn care, it is in my opinion that I state that I believe that this method is faulty.  It seems to me that mulch mowing the debris creates a thin layer of lawn suppressing garbage as opposed to a more chunky layer of grass killing garbage.  Heavy riding mowers exacerbate the problem because the heaviness and the wide tires push the debris into the soil.  Pushing acorns, sticks and pine cones into the turf is a sure way to kill that spot in the season to come (grass will not grow on top of a pine cone).  Although using the riding mower and getting those yard guy juices flowing seems like a great idea, in my opinion you'd be much better off buying a quality backpack blower, blowing the leaves into a pile, raking that onto a $9 tarp and dragging it to the street or a natural area.

     There are also various treatments that you might consider in the Fall.  Lime, for instance, might be a good pick if your pH is off, if you see moss, or if you have onions...and often times, in yards that have a lot of washout or pine trees, lime application is a good choice for this time of year.  One lawn treatment service that I consider to be a basic need is pre-emergent.  Pre-emergent granules can be a critical part of the annual treatment regime in that they "prevent" winter weeds from emerging.  This often overlooked treatment also has post emergent properties to a lesser extent and a slight amount of seasonal fertilizer.     

     In summary, if you have an abundance of leaves, pinecones, or the like in your yard, do your lawn a favor in the spring to come and do the leaf removal with a backpack blower.  The job will be done much faster, much easier, and more thorough than other methods like raking.  Take the time to manually pick up the heavier debris like sticks and pinecones.  Carefully gather acorns with a rake or take the time to blow acorns into a pile so you can collect them and remove them.  Spend some time working on your yard in the fall and your lawn will be on its way to being more lush and beautiful for your enjoyment in the spring to come!